The renowned fashion designer shares with Tatler the story behind the gown that won the hearts of the Filipino people
Miss Universe Philippines, Michelle Marquez Dee raised the Filipino flag at El Salvador last November 19 (18 to the rest of the world) for the greatest celebration of women every year—the Miss Universe pageant. Dee strutted to the Top 10, ultimately wowing the masses when she revealed her custom-made Mark Bumgarner piece during the evening gown competition.
In an Instagram post, Dee and her team revealed that it was inspired by the 106-year-old indigenous tattoo artist Apo Whang-Od. “[It’s] a tribute to a legendary Filipina who has become an icon, preserving the rich cultural heritage of indigenous tattoo art,” she wrote.
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Bumgarner, the creative force behind the gown, explained they wanted to convey inclusivity to indigenous people. “Whang-Od is also the oldest woman to grace the cover of a magazine, which coincides with the Miss Universe Organisation’s decision to lift the age rules—sending the message that beauty and women, in general, should not be defined by their age any longer,” he says.
“I have always wanted to bring our indigenous tattoo art to a global platform,” he shares. “I also believe in [Dee]. She is a fighter and a warrior in her own right.” It was the energy that he got from the beauty queen that inspired him to create the dress.
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And like fighters of their own, Bumgarner and his team worked on it for a whole month. It was a long and tedious process with eight to 10 people offering their services—from drawing patterns to sewing and beading—just to complete it in time for the big day. And that night, the black gown stood out amongst the silver, gold, and light blue.
“In general, I think pageant gowns need to be more original. It gets boring when no one takes risks,” says Bumgarner, as he confesses that most of the gowns—from the cuts to the colours and shiny embellishments—looked the same. “Pageant dressing needs to evolve. I think Filipinos and other countries love Dee because she brought modernity to the pageant from day one till the end.”
ABOVE Michelle Marquez Dee walks onstage during the 72nd Miss Universe Competition at Gimnasio Nacional José Adolfo Pineda on November 18, 2023 in San Salvador, El Salvador. (Photo by Hector Vivas/Getty Images)
Ultimately, Bumgarner believes every candidate should bring a part of their country when competing internationally. Not only will it make them stand out, but it will also bring a sense of pride and nationalism to the country they are representing.
“When Ryuji, [Dee]’s stylist, curated her wardrobe, he instantly knew what message to convey. It was composed mostly of Pinoy designers but had modern designs. A Filipiniana does not always mean a terno.” Dee’s gown showcased tattoo art, which is distinctly Filipino as well. “The messaging through style was clear. [And it’s because of this that] Dee won everyone’s hearts,” Bumgarner says.